This will also give you a chance to wash out some of the dust that collects in the sponge as you go. Note: Every few minutes, dampen the sponge in the warm water. (Here, too, light pressure will help avoid creating grooves or gouges.) Work your sponge’s abrasive side in a large, circular motion to sand the joints, corners, screws, and around electric boxes. Squeeze all excess water out of the sanding sponge, so that it is damp but not dripping. Then dunk the sanding sponge in the water. This time, fill up a bucket about half-full with warm water and place it with the rest of your tools. Prep your space following the suggestions in Step 1 of the dry sanding process. Just add a bucket (and a mop for any mess) to the materials list above, and you’re good to get started. If the final finish is wallpaper or texturing, however, consider wet sanding to save a lot of time. The catch? It does not produce quite as smooth a finish as dry sanding, and therefore is not suitable for walls that will be painted. ![]() The biggest downside to drywall sanding is that it produces dust-a lot of dust! Wet sanding drywall avoids most of this mess and the associated cleanup. If your vacuum has a pre-filter, use one designed to capture drywall dust and other fine particles. Use a vacuum cleaner or shop vac to clean up the drywall dust. Prime the walls, then sand again lightly to remove any lumpy spots or paper fuzz. Let dry completely, and then re-sand the area. Fill these areas with fresh joint compound, smoothing with a putty knife. Shine a light parallel to the joints to reveal any gouges, grooves, or ridges. Use a sanding sponge to get into the corners and around electrical boxes, again, applying light pressure to avoid damaging the drywall paper. Instead, move the sander around in a curved motion. ![]() Also avoid sanding in a straight line or going over the same area in the same direction, both of which can leave grooves or depressions.Careful to not put too much pressure on the surface to avoid “fuzzing” the drywall or leaving sanding marks sand the center of seams and joints just enough to remove ridges and bumps.Sand the joints, seams, and around screws lightly with the sanding block. If you use one, though, be careful to keep the sanding head slightly angled-never completely perpendicular to the pole, to avoid gouging the surface. You can purchase pre-cut sections that are designed to fit drywall sanders-anchor one end under the clamp and pull the sandpaper taut before tightening the clamp on the other side.Īttach the sanding block to a sanding pole, if desired, to better reach the ceiling or along the top edges of the walls. STEP 2Īffix a section of fine-grit sandpaper to the sanding block. If you have an exterior window, open it a crack to provide ventilation. Tape plastic sheeting across any doors leading to other areas of your home, as well as over the floor and any furniture in the room. Wear a dust mask and goggles to protect your face you may want to cover your hair with a scarf and wear old clothes. Before you begin, assemble all tools in the room where you will be sanding, including extra joint compound and a putty knife to fill in any gouges or mistakes. Photo: via Georgia National Guard STEP 1ĭrywall sanding produces copious amounts of dust, but proper preparation can help keep the dust from infiltrating every nook and cranny of your home.
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